Ready Made Internal Doors
We supply ready made internal doors, which come in a range of traditional and contemporary styles. These attractive doors represent value for money without sacrificing quality.
Internal doors buying guide
How to measure an internal door
If you’re replacing existing internal doors, measuring each of your doors (assuming they fit well) will give you the ideal measurements for your new doors. To unscrew an old door, remove the screws from the bottom hinge first, ensuring the door is well supported.
Once you have measured the old door, keep it until the new door arrives – it can be used as a template.
If you just have a door frame without a door, take your measurements from the inside of the door frame. You need to take two measurements for the height (left and right) and two measurements for the width (top and bottom) as shown in the diagram. You also need to measure the thickness of the door required.
Order a door that is closest in size to the tallest/widest of your measurements and plane the edges to fit as necessary. Be aware that if you buy cheaper pressed hardboard doors, you have only limited scope for planing them down to size (see below).
Standard internal door sizes
Although ready-made internal doors come in a number of sizes, the most common size is 1981 mm by 762 mm (78 inches by 30 inches). Internal doors also have 3 standard thicknesses: 35mm (the most common), 40mm or 44mm fire check doors.
Our internal door sizes:
|Half hour fire check doors||44mm|
Choose the standard size that is closest to your measurements but never smaller than your measurements. You can cut or plane an internal door down to size if it is slightly too large.
Fitting your new internal door
If your old door fitted the frame well, it can be used as a template. Lay the old door on top of the new door and mark anywhere that you need to cut or sand so that the new door fits the frame.
If your old door wasn’t a good fit, you can hold the new door to the door frame to see if it needs adjusting and mark it from there.
You need to leave a 2mm gap between the frame and the door. The edge of a 2p coin is ideal for measuring this. You also need to leave a 5 to 10mm gap at the bottom of the door, depending on how thick your carpet is.
To trim down your door, you can either use a panel saw (for amounts of 6mm or more), or a hand plane (for smaller amounts). When using a plane on the bottom or top of the door, always work from outside to centre, to avoid the outer edges splitting.
If you’re using new hinges for your door, see if they fit in the existing gaps. Otherwise, you’ll need to cut out a larger gap using a chisel and mallet.
Types of internal door
There are three main types of internal door: flush, pressed hardboard and panel. Ledge and brace doors are also popular in cottages and barn conversions.
Flush doors have a wood frame that has been covered in hardboard or plywood. The edges are typically finished with ‘lipping’, which are hardwood edge strips – although budget doors do not have this edging.
Pressed hardboard doors are similar to flush doors in construction but have an embossed surface that makes them look like panelled doors. This may be smooth or grained. These doors have a ‘lock block’ which is a block of wood measuring about 30cm fitted into one edge of the door, allowing a lock or handle to be fitted. You will see these doors are stamped with ‘Lock’ or ‘LB’ to show you which side the block is on. This stops you fitting hinges to the wrong side of the door and not being able to fix a handle securely!
Flush and pressed hardboard doors have a hollow core – this means that they are filled with a lightweight paper honeycomb. Since the framework surrounding the filling can be as little as 25mm thick, you are limited on the amount you can take off the edges if your door opening is smaller than the standard size.
Panel doors (sometimes called a stile and rail door) are the more expensive option of the three. They are made using softwood or hardwood and have either doweled or mortice and tenon joints.The panels can be flat or raised, these panels fit into a groove in the stiles and rails of the door.
Framed ledge and brace doors have a top middle and bottom rail on the inner side, with a diagonal ‘brace’ going across the centre of each panel. On the outside, a ledge and brace door is battened (it has vertical boards). The diagonal braces are not as old as you might think – they became popular around World War I as a way to support the door when the availability of good quality timber was scarce. Nowadays framed ledge and brace doors are popular in cottage-style homes.
Internal fire doors
Building Regulations require that buildings are divided into compartments to protect escape routes such as staircases and corridors. In homes of more than two levels, internal doors leading from habitable rooms to the stairwell should be fire doors on all levels. Fire doors are also a requirement in loft conversions, between the house and garage, and between any residential/business elements in a mixed-use building. In non-domestic buildings, the guidance is more complex.
You can view more information on the BWF website.
For an internal door to be classed as a fire door, there are requirements as to fire safety, accessibility, thermal efficiency, sound, ventilation and safety glazing. Usually internal fire doors will have a fire resistance period of 30 minutes and be 44mm thick. The internal doors that we stock which are suitable as fire doors are clearly marked on the product descriptions but you should satisfy yourself as to their suitability for your specific requirements.
Internal glazed doors – safety
Safety glass is necessary for some panels, depending on their height from the floor. The regulations protect areas where it is possible that an impact could occur. In those areas, the glass must be able to withstand a lead shot-filled leather bag weighing 45kg dropped like a pendulum from a particular height.
Source and further guidance: http://www.pilkington.com/resources/brimpactsafetypdf.pdf
Internal doors – period styles
Doors are a fundamental part of the design of a room and original doors in a period property will typically match a room’s style and proportions. This is often the case in Victorian and Georgian houses, where panel doors are very common. To preserve the character it makes sense to choose a door that is in keeping with the style of your property, even if your building is not listed.
The Georgian period saw the popularity of panelled doors explode. Typically, they would have six panels, and be notably grander in the public areas of a house, with more humble designs for private rooms or servants’ areas.
Victorian interior doors often featured four panels. Sometimes they would be half glazed, with single or multi panel glass panels at the top. This allows light to filter through the rooms.
Where two reception rooms adjoined, a double or folding door would be used as a division.
By the 1920s and 30s, popular styles were three long lower timber panels which created a square top panel, flush doors had also risen in popularity, often with a hardwood veneered face.
Listed buildings / planning permission for internal doors
You won’t need planning permission to change an internal door, unless it’s in a listed building. Every listed building is different, so if yours is listed, get in touch with your local Council’s planning advice service to find out if permission is required. Should you require planner permission, we can offer a complete design and specification service for planning permission approval.
Make an enquiry about our ready made doors
Browse through our gallery of ready made doors and then contact us today on 01159 588 755 to discuss your requirements. Alternatively, get in touch using our contact form.